Thom Browne F/W 09 in Florence
American menswear designer Thom Browne just showed his fall winter 09 collection in Florence. Instead of staging a traditional fashion show, Browne presented his collection in an office set in Florence’s Istituto di Scienze Militari Aeronatiche. In the 1938 building, the streamlined details played off the cast of 40 men in identical slicked hair and a uniform of sharp Thom Browne tailored suits.
The models all wore the same camel coats and carried the same briefcases as they walked into an office set of 1950s desks and typewriters. A boss character rung a bell to cue the removal of coats and suit jackets (both with striped linings) and the start of the typing.
The taut presentation gave the audience ample opportunity to appreciate both the small design details and the bigger overall spirit of the collection. This is how a designer can break free from the runway show! Definitely not the usual self-indulgent gimmickry of film shorts or party presentations. Plus it reminds me of Vanessa Beecroft‘s work.
Designer Thom Browne:
A Vanessa Beecroft performance staged in the Museum of Contemporary Art, San Diego, in 1999:
Via IHT.
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